In previous articles of the Watch House, we have been telling you how to choose and buy your first watch, but we all know that watches are like accessories, and one is not enough So, now there is a very realistic problem. After buying the first watch, many friends will have a higher interest in the watch than before, and even find that they did not understand the wonderful and magnificent. Haute Horlogerie. So how deep is the water in the field of watch purchase? How can it be a way to understand and gradually clarify your future purchase of watches? The following will tell you the answer.
Watch shop is a good school
At present, with the exception of those niche watch brands, almost all of the world’s high-end watch brands have entered China, and even Patek Philippe, which entered China relatively late, has been in China for almost 10 years. Ten years ago, you wanted to see the real thing of a Patek Philippe watch on sale. You have to travel to Hong Kong recently. Today, whether you are in Shanghai or Beijing, you can experience the meticulousness and luxury of the top Swiss watch brands in your own city. Of course you will definitely say that such an expensive watch must be bought in Hong Kong, but in fact, true Hong Kong game watch enthusiasts will buy PP in Shanghai or Beijing instead of Hong Kong. The reason is very simple. Although there are many watch shops operating Patek Philippe products in Hong Kong, most of the watch models in the store are the most conventional and simplest models, and the real market performance is amazing. Patek Philippe’s rare complicated functions and complex craft models, so To invest and collect it, except at auctions, you can only access the spot when you come to Shanghai and Beijing. Therefore, in the two stores in Beijing and Shanghai, it is not difficult to see players who enter the mainland from Hong Kong to buy watches, because they know that the really good things are not in Hong Kong, but beside everyone. Now that the market around us has provided a platform for the majority of watch enthusiasts to easily contact and feel high-end watches, why do n’t we go to watch stores often, just like a woman may go to the store ten times and may not really buy clothes again. Men go to the watch shop a few times more, listen to the explanations of the staff, according to their own needs, until the choice of a good watch is the most secure way.
Can’t throw away the entire forest for the top ten
The rapid development of China’s watch market has made domestic watch models update effective, the latest information media presentation, and the types of demand of Chinese and European and American markets have been close to synchronization. Moreover, China’s watch market has become one of the most important watch markets in the world. In particular, China has a large population. Although the proportion of wealthy people is not large, it is definitely not small. They can be said to be the main direction of each brand. However, it is undeniable that Chinese people still have a very shallow understanding of the art of clocks and watches, so the reference to the ‘Top Ten Watches’ is still the most influential and far-reaching topic of clocks and clocks. There are even countless people who know that ten are more important. I think that it’s okay to buy the right brand. Although there is nothing wrong with choosing a brand and choosing a brand, I only think there is a problem with the brand. In fact, the most important thing is to think about what your real needs are. How good is a good watch? When buying a certain type of watch, what problems should I pay attention to in daily use? and many more. Right now, the topic of ‘luxury’, including high-end watches, is very hot, as if all kinds of media have lost the starting line without luxury topics and luxury advertisements. But a few people really understand the circumstances under which high-value daily necessities or high-value crafts can be considered ‘luxury goods’, and what kind of watches really enter the halls of Haute Horlogerie
Get rid of ETA and enter the world of haute horlogerie
In the world of haute horology, the beauty of craftsmanship is first, and the practicality is second. The person who buys high-end watches, whether he or she is really rich, should have the correct motivation for buying: be touched by that exquisiteness in order to obtain the enjoyment of beauty. Not to show off or follow suit. The medium-priced and practical Swiss watches are synonymous with stability and easy maintenance, and are loved by people around the world. But in the world of haute horlogerie, the overproduction of ETA movement system, easy to be imitated and lack of personality, make real players stay away. To put it simply, I have not heard that the watch equipped with the ETA movement is classified as a top-quality or collectible item. ETA is a large Swiss general movement manufacturer under the Swatch Group. Its products include conventional automatic movements (such as 2892), ultra-thin manual movements (such as 7001), large-diameter pocket watch movements (such as 6497), and automatic chronographs. Cores (such as 7750), as well as a considerable sequence of quartz movements, and provide huge room for application manufacturers to modify. The integration of ETA seems to have brought Swiss clocks and watches into the ‘era of machine control’, thus defeating the ‘Quartz Revolution’ initiated by the Japanese in the mid-1970s, and it has historical significance. But it also turned the Swiss clocks and watches into a hundred flowers, each with its own unique characteristics. A rough estimate is that in the category known as ‘Swiss watches’ in the world, the use of ETA movements accounts for about 85%. The remaining 15% of manufacturers have both low-end miscellaneous factories that cannot afford ETA movements, and peak-to-peak peaks-the real high-end watchmakers. Just like the composition of a harmonious society, the middle class (equivalent to ETA) is the mainstream of the society, and the rest are the vulnerable groups and a few richest people. So today, everyone who collects special high-end watches regards whether the movement is self-produced or not ETA is more important than anything.
Teach you to watch the movement
According to the watch family’s clock expressing people’s quick strategy, anyone who knows high-end watches must follow: 1. brand 2. series 3. movement 4. hands-on 5. antique watch such as shallow to deep, easy to go Difficult cognitive process. Otherwise, the knowledge of watches and clocks will be scattered and there is no system at all. Then the common sense of the ‘calibration’ belongs to the third level, especially the ‘traceability of the movement’ is a bit difficult for junior players, and it is also a place where the skills of the players will be tested in the future. Faced with all kinds of watch movements, many people are at a loss, and said helplessly: ‘I don’t know how to watch.’ Experience tells us that it is best to start with two aspects of knowledge about the movement: one, from the machine Functional aspects of the core. Simply put, it is a movement with different functions, which looks very different. After understanding the different looks of different movements, you can roughly determine the function of the watch by the appearance of the movement (such as: ordinary three hands, calendar and full calendar , Annual calendar, perpetual calendar, timing function, tourbillon, minute repeater, etc.), and the price differentiation of watches with these functions. For example, the perpetual calendar price of famous factories starts from 250,000 yuan to 600,000 yuan. Perpetual calendars outside this section may have more or less factors that you did not take into account. Tourbillon watches from famous factories are basically worth millions, while the three-minute watches from famous factories don’t have a budget of three million, so don’t touch them easily.
In addition to knowing the movement by function, it also includes the distinction between manual and automatic movements. Among the manual movements, which have the ‘Geneva Mark’ and which do not; which do not have the ‘Geneva Mark’ but are typical German Movement style. In the automatic movement system, the large line system is another example: a large automatic tourbillon movement and a pearl tourbillon movement; an ETA automatic movement and a Rolex automatic movement. Although there are so many types of movements, the most important thing is to distinguish between ETA movements. The above are various changes of 7750 movement, one of ETA’s most famous movements. But the changes are inseparable, and they will always be displayed. There is a golden gear next to the wheel. As long as you remember this feature, you will recognize all the 7750 movements on the market. In order for everyone to learn more solidly, today we will remember this one first. As for other ETA movements, we will tell you how to identify them in future articles.
After reading the above text, although it does not solve many of the actual clock problems you face. But at least I know what direction we should go to find out or solve the actual problem. So after buying the first watch, there is a longer way to go. Of course, this is a cumulative process that requires a certain amount of time, energy and even wealth. The knowledge system of clocks and watches is just like the architecture of the building. Once you meet new things, you will know that it should be stored in a room in the ‘clock and watch building’. But without this system, when you see complicated watches, it will still be a piece of sand, and you can’t enter the building or the right room. Over time, the existing knowledge of watches and clocks will also deteriorate. Watch House will systematically build the correct watch knowledge system for everyone in the future. Until you all become bell expressors. (Text / picture / watch home Mao Zhuang)